Red-Tailed Hawk along Coal Creek, Louisville, Colorado
But I know most folks in the continental US aren't so lucky. You might need to drive much further than I do to see truly wild animals. And for artists living in a big city who want to paint wildlife, zoo animals can be an important source for reference material. But for the wildlife artist, there are a few things to keep in mind when painting or sculpting zoo animals, especially when you're going to place them in a naturalistic (wild) setting. Knowing what adjustments you need to make in your painting or sculpture can give your finished work the authentic look of a wild scene.
General Observations
Most zoo animals don't get a lot of exercise, certainly not as much as their truly wild cousins. There are some exceptions to this, but by and large, expect to have to trim some fat and add some muscle tone to the animals in your art if you want them to appear truly wild. This is similar to what you and I might do when we go to a gym, but easier! This is where you find other reference photos, dust off your drawing skills, and make the adjustments you need the old-fashioned way: by hand.
Also note that animals in zoos often have different behaviors than their wild counterparts, so what you see them doing in a zoo might not be something you'd see its wild cousin doing out in the national park. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but some zoo animals can't handle the stress of being confined and develop repetitive, compulsive behaviors that are not natural. Get to know the animals you're painting or sculpting. Read about them, watch videos, try to see them in the wild if you can. Note their wild behavior and how it's different from those same types of animals in a zoo. All of this background research will make its way into your finished work and give it an added layer of authenticity.
Another thing to keep in mind is the time of year you're portraying in your work. In cold climates, wild mammals tend to look rather thin in the spring due to lack of food over the winter. They may also be sporting their winter coats until early to mid summer, depending on the species so getting the coat condition correct with the season is a big plus.
Wild birds, particularly ducks and shorebirds, may have remarkably different colorations from winter to summer - if you want to make your painting look authentic, don't portray a duck in its summer finery in a cold winter setting. Again, get to know the animal you're painting either with guidebooks (either online or print).
One note if you're trying to portray zoo-housed African or Australian animals in a naturalistic/wild setting: the light quality (color, intensity, general appearance) in Africa and Australia is much different from the way it looks in North America. If you haven't physically been in safari, in order to portray the lighting correctly on your animals and avoid painting them with "North American lighting", you're going to need to do some research. Watch videos of African/Australian wildlife to get the feel of the lighting where your animals might live - your local library should have a ton of movies - but remember not to copy from them. Movies and DVDs are copyright-protected, just as photos in books and magazines are. Use them for inspiration only unless you have the permission of the copyright-holder.
A Bonus Tip
It's also a really great idea to have a library of your own reference photos or sketches of truly wild animals to which you'd compare the zoo animals. This is the approach I take since a) I like observing wildlife in the wilderness b) I like taking photos and c) I prefer my paintings be 100% mine from start to finish (not using reference photos from other people if I can help it). You certainly can use books, web photos, or other published material just to see what a truly wild animal looks like, but understand that you cannot copy from these published materials unless you have the permission of the person who produced it. Since copyright laws can be dicey, you're much safer to use your own reference photos as much as possible. Plus it's most fun to take your own pictures, and experience the animals on your own, than it is to page through a book or a website!
Now on to the animals...
Small Birds - For birds that cannot fly, look for clipped flight feathers and broken wings on the smaller zoo birds. Some of these birds are rescues that cannot be released back into the wild and are given refuge in zoos. Refer to photos of truly wild versions of the birds and make adjustments to your drawing or painting accordingly (i.e., add flight feathers back in, "mend" a broken wing by drawing it in its correct placement, etc.).
A budgie at the Tacoma Zoo - no adjustments necessary other than lighting.
Large Birds and Raptors - Again, check for clipped flight feathers and broken wings (common). Note that many of the larger birds and raptors will have atrophied breast (pectoral) muscles if they are not flown, and the birds themselves might look a bit chunky in the belly region. Refer to photos of truly wild versions of the birds and make adjustments to your work accordingly (i.e., add flight feathers back in, "mend" a broken wing by drawing it in its correct placement, etc.).
A captive Gyrfalcon, not flown. Note atrophied pectoral muscles and overall chunky-looking belly.
A captive Prairie Falcon, unable to fly but exercised as much as his injury allowed. Note his broken right wing (left side of the pic) resting at a slightly odd angle. Pectorals a little atrophied but otherwise a lean bird not requiring a lot of adjustments to paint/sculpt.
A wild Red-Tailed Hawk in Lafayette, Colorado.
Small Mammals - May be lacking a little in muscle tone and might be a bit overweight, although this is often harder to see on the smaller mammals in zoos. You may need to trim some fat from them and tone up their muscles if you want to place them in a naturalistic setting in your artwork, but I find this isn't usually necessary.
Large Mammals - I'll get on my soapbox a little bit here...it's my opinion that most zoos don't have the space to adequately and compassionately house large mammals like elephants, giraffes, hippos, rhinos, Bighorn Sheep, Mountain Goats, Bison, etc. A few zoos do, most don't, but this doesn't stop them from doing it. In the wild, these animals often roam great distances and are very active in their quest for food, water, or to avoid predators. To me, the large mammals in zoos often appear overweight, lacking in muscle tone, and they look/act bored or suffering from forms of stress-induced psychosis. They are often not a pretty sight. The bigger the enclosures, the better, so places like Northwest Trek near Tacoma and the San Diego Wild Animal Park in California are often better for the animals than a small city zoo.
Bighorn Sheep ewe at the Denver Zoo - a little pudgy through the belly and lacking a little muscle tone, but not too bad.
A wild Bighorn Sheep ewe on Mt. Evans, Colorado. A little slimmer through the belly and a bit more muscled than her captive cousin. Probably happier too.
Reptiles - Zoo reptiles may be lacking a bit in muscle tone and have muted skin colors. I've noticed that many zoo reptiles (especially our more colorful lizards) tend to be a tad less colorful in captivity than their cousins in the wild. Overall though, you probably won't need to make many adjustments.
Carnivores - All of the same things apply to carnivores as I said above under "Large Mammals," but I'll add a bit. Zoo cats (lions, tigers, mountain lions, etc.) almost across-the-board lack muscle tone and definition. Most are overweight, either a little or a lot. I have seen some very obese adult cats (and bears too) in zoos, and it's not a pretty sight when you've seen them in all of their fit and well-muscled glory in the wild. Again, there are exceptions but if you plan on putting a zoo cat into a naturalistic setting in your art, you're going to need to consult references photos of truly wild individuals and make adjustments in your work. If the zoo animal is truly obese, it's probably not possible to make enough adjustments for him or her look fit and wild - the only thing you might be able to salvage from the animal is a portrait.
A somewhat-overweight Tiger at the Wild Animal Sanctuary here in Colorado. These guys get a lot of room to roam (many acres!) but the Sanctuary makes sure to keep their big cats adequately fed so they are more docile and easier to care for.
A captive Wolf at the Wild Animal Sanctuary. Slim and relatively fit because of many acres to run on with her pack, this wolf wouldn't need many adjustments. Perhaps a little additional muscle tone around her shoulders, but she looks pretty good as-is!
Sea Mammals - ditto "Large Mammals," above. They don't belong on display in traditional zoos or aquariums, period. Rehabilitation & release I understand and support, but not catch-and-display. I don't give my money to institutions that do this.
The Wrap-up
You can portray captive animals in natural settings in your art if you know what adjustments to make. The key is getting to know the animals as much as possible, both in the wild and in captivity. Read, watch videos, and research as much as you can.
Taking these things into account as you paint or draw zoo animals will give your painting a feeling of authenticity.
All text and photos copyright Nancy Rynes. You may link to this page, but do not copy text or photos without my written permission.
